22. Last day in Goa

Another beautiful HOT HOT day in Goa. Went to a weekly Friday market nearby this morning . The heat was unbelievable . Mapusa market is well known around here and definitely well attended. Pretty much anything you could think of wanting to buy was on display. The shanks of mutton and beef hanging in the hot sun with the flies crawling all over them didn't make me want to have a burger anytime soon. And the dried (and i assume salted ) fish lying on the ground didn't smell the most pleasant. But you can always count on the live chickens which there were many. At least it wasn't raw meat hanging out in the sun.
So many different vegetables and fruits and so many vendors clamouring to have the white faces stop and buy something from them . "Hello ? Hello ? Ma'am ? Come here! I make you best best price !". One woman tried to befriend me by asking where i was from and what my name was. I made the mistake of telling her and then for at least 20 minutes straight she followed me. If I got too far away I would hear " Sheeeley come with me! I show you my shop! Sheeeley wait !" . I finally had to be rude and tell her I was not interested and to please stop.
The heat was almost unbearable . Heidi and I made a pact in the mountains, when we could never get warm, that we wouldn't complain about the heat. So hopefully saying "almost" absolves me. We both had dresses on and both of us were soaked to the skin with sweat. I had continuous drips running all over me and just kept trying to drink water to keep a balance. We did make a couple of purchases but was hard to get into bargaining mode with sweat running off the tip of my nose. Not complaining. Just sayin .
We had an option of visiting a spice plantation afterwards which I probably am already kicking myself for not doing but the market sapped us of any energy and bodily fluids . Back to the hotel for the afternoon where there is, at least , a breeze . Planning on dinner out tonight - hoping on some fresh fish. Will skip any dried or salted varieties after this morning .
Back to Mumbai tomorrow afternoon and then on to Aizawl for me and back to the states for Heidi.

21. Relaxing in Goa

Its Thu evening here in Goa. Life has changed from fast paced trekking, on the go all the time to sloooow. Was quite hot here today. Got up this morning and had breakfast and then walked to local beach. Water was very warm and Heidi enjoyed swimming and lying on the beach . I took a walk down the beach and then planted myself in the shade. Those of you who know me well, know that I am no sun worshipper . We sat there for a while and then moved poolside, again me in the shade. I got quite a bit of reading done . Never really ventured out much til around 4 when we got a cab and went to take a local sunset cruise. We both thought it would be a relaxing hour long float down the river with a bit of history and commentary about the local area. What it turned out to be was a loud, ear pounding, dance music cruise where everyone was invited time and again to visit the bar at the back and then come on stage and perform your dance moves for everyone . As we were the only two white people on a boat full of likely 400 Indian people, we remained firmly planted in our seats and just watched in amazement and somewhat bemusement . They even played "Gangnam style " which was a huge crowd hit. Oddly enough it seemed the men were up dancing much more than the females .
Got off the boat and searched for a place for dinner. Took a while but found somewheres . Then it was likely an hour of walking trying to find a cab to take us back. The international film festival of India is here right now and there were droves of people on the street along with many military . Finally, when I was starting to lose hope of finding a cab, one appeared and we made it back. Only to find a dance floor with Indian dance music was rocking out here. Bypassed it also and back in the room. Tomorrow last full day here in the south and then will fly back to Mumbai on Sat . Then I catch a very early flight the next morning to Kolkata (Calcutta)/Aizawl and Heidi flys out late that night (early morning) back to the states .

20. Mumbai to Goa

Since the last post we spent a couple of days in Mumbai. On the 20th we were happy to have friends from Pune, originally from Aizawl Mizoram, come to visit us at the hotel where we were staying . Lawma, his wife Mamie and their children, Esther, Benjamin, and Anna, have been living in Pune while Lawma furthers his education in ministry . Anna had been born since the last time I had seen them, so our first time meeting her. They came and ate lunch with us at the hotel, along with their pastor, who was kind enough to drive them down to visit with us. It happened to be Esther's 14th birthday also, so I made arrangements for the waiter to bring over a small cake with a candle in it. Lawma told me Benjamin had not slept the night before at all, as he was so excited about what Aunty (me) might bring him as a gift from Canada . He seemed to enjoy the lego transformer and cars and Esther put her new Canada t-shirt on right away.
The children had never been to a beach before either, and luckily our hotel backed on the Arabian sea with a large beach . The night before there had been a festival down there, I think called Chhat, but that could be wrong. Apparently women make offerings to the sun god so that they can bear a male child . Then they fast for three days . Anyway, the beach was a bit littered from all the fireworks and festivities but we managed to find some cleaner spots and the children had a great time. Little 3 yr old Anna was soaked from running in the water but luckily they had brought changes of clothes .
After they left it was time for us to get moving once again. Likely waited a bit too long to get going as the Mumbai traffic is crazy, and as per our usual we were running through the airport trying to make our flight. We were able to leave our overweight luggage at the airport in a locked facility so just took carry ons to Goa which helped some. Arrived here last night around ten and although couldn't see much due to darkness, the hotel seems good and I think we plan on going to a local market this morning . Got great advice from our taxi driver last night - "Only eat Goa fish curry . It's the best. Never eat the Chinese food. It's just for foreigners . Only eat domestic chicken . Don't go in water too far."  :)     He was also very concerned with our coughs and wanted to take us to a medicine store but we declined .
Will try to update again later.

19. Kathmandu to Mumbai

It was bound to happen , but I finally hit the wall today. Awake early and had breakfast while Heidi slept bit more and then just realized I could hardly put one foot in front of the other. Heidi decided to do some shopping in Kathmandu as we were leaving by one to catch our flights to Mumbai . I crawled back into bed, still hacking and coughing and just rested for a while. I just felt like I had been drugged, no energy at all. Felt slightly better by the time we went to leave for airport but not much.
I wish I could say our flights were smooth and easy but I'm not sure I have ever been able to say that about any flight in Asia. It started out with them telling us as we checked in our bags that we were way over weight limit and that we would have to pay over 300 US for this! We were able to talk them down to 100 US. Kara, you better like your Christmas present .The airport was plugged solid and things moved very slowly. The flight left half an hour late and we already had a tight switch between flights in Delhi. On top of that, they do this weird thing in India that if you are transferring flights you must go to baggage and pick up all your bags instead of them sending them on through. Then you have to rush to the next area with your bags, re-check them once again through security and then find your gate again, meanwhile going through countless security checks . I have never been patted down and frisked so much in my life.
So we literally almost ran through the Delhi airport trying to get this all accomplished . Finally got through all checkpoints and to the gate with 15 minutes to spare. Both of us feeling relieved . For a few seconds . Then I proceeded through final gate, turned to wait for Heidi, noticed she wasn't moving. Somehow, even though we had checked in together in Kathmandu, they had changed her flight number and she wasn't booked for this flight . Despite protests by the military standing at the gate I went back through. At first we were told she would have to go on later flight regardless and that I couldn't change, and that current flight was full. Finally they found her a seat (in first class,no less) and we got in just before they closed the doors .
Got to Mumbai, both of us exhausted . Not sure if news of prominent political leader, Bal Thackeray's death , made it to Canada , but his funeral had closed streets down in Mumbai in the afternoon and we were unsure what we were going to find. What we found was that the taxis were all on strike (still not really sure why) so there was limited vehicles to drive us to hotel . We thought we had booked a hotel near the airport and after much dickering and arguing with a bunch of men we settled on a price and set off. And drove . And drove. And drove. Then we seemed to be going outside the city. And still we drove. Our driver spoke very little English so difficult to get anything from him. The road we ended up on was dark and all we could see were men walking on it. Finally I saw a sign that said the name of our hotel and minutes later we arrived through the gates . Much security upon arrival, I am assuming because of trouble Mumbai has had in the past with terrorists. Even had to put all of our bags through airport-like security . We will stay here two nights and will make plans today about where to go next. Both of us are knocked flat a bit with this cold so hopefully a good down day will help that some. Temperatures are in high 20's or 30-ish so that should help some . Safe and sound in Mumbai, Mom!

18. Lukla to Kathmandu

Up early once again (remember, sleep is for sissies), at 0500 and caught the plane from Lukla to Kathmandu. Again, very small plane, just big enough to fit our group on. It is so beautiful flying over the hills with the mountains as the backdrop . Looking down there would be nothing but trees and then all of a sudden a lone house, far away from everything . The terrace farms are so amazing from above also.
Back to Kathmandu and back to the noise and smog. The smog lies so heavy in the air and is so noticeable after breathing mountain air for two weeks (although the yak dung fires got a bit noxious at times). So great to come back here to some clean clothes !! Our guide, Maski , was so funny. While we were trekking one of his favourite sayings was " We in mountains now. It's ok. Stay stinky !". I was watching the trekkers that we met yesterday on the trail, just beginning their journey . I was thinking " That's right. See my dirty clothes ? See my cracked bleeding lips.? Hear my hacking cough? My dusty dirty boots? This will be you soon. Enjoy your white fleece sweater while you can because you will probably not even want to bring it home after". But, instead, I smiled, nodded my head and said "Namaste". Why ruin it for them?
Our rooms weren't ready for us when we got back as it was only 0800 when we reached here. But Heidi and I quickly gathered ALL our dirty clothes (except the ones we had on) and had the hotel send them off to the laundry . Enjoyed a good breakfast just down the street with REAL coffee and then came back to our room being ready around 1000. Had the best shower i have had since leaving Canada . Scrubbed myself almost raw. And then put on clean clothes . Aaaah.
Meeting the group for one last dinner together tonight . Will really miss some of them. And then some, not so much. Will definitely miss our guide . He has been the best. Always helpful. Always happy. Always funny. Always knowledgeable . Always caring. We really lucked out getting him.
Tomorrow afternoon leaving Kathmandu and flying back to Mumbai . Still don't have plans made for Southern India but will likely work more on that tomorrow . Nice having no real agenda for the time being .

17. Tashi Delek to Lukla - semi civilization!

Another cold night but knowing it was the last one in the mountains made it bearable. My sleeping bag from MEC has been amazing. A few nights Heidi has been cold with her sleeping bag and an extra blanket and i have been able to give her my blanket and be plenty warm.
Started out early and had 5 hours ahead of us. Unfortunately a lot of it uphill. I remember our first day wondering at the luck of having so much downhill and thinking how lucky we were. Like i said before. Payback. Big. But today I really didn't care (although at one point thought "seriously, we can't go up much more!"). Today i just kinda stayed by myself in the middle of the group and reflected . This was it. Last day of walking . Hard to believe. Had my ipod on and just enjoyed .
I feel like I learned a lot during this time. I learned that people are somewhat the same all over the world no matter their situation. I learned a smile and a greeting in native tongue can earn you a smile and a  greeting back. I learned the Nepali people are a resilient strong people in both character and strength. Anyone who can carry 130kgs on their back, likely twice their body weight, for two days uphill to another village for 30 rupies per kg (approximately 50 cents ), turn around go back down and start over again has my respect and then some. I saw men/boys carrying full stoves with pipe on their backs. Even saw a man going with a bathtub on his back today . I could hardly handle a small pack.
I learned that I am weaker in some ways than I thought I was. I learned that I am stronger than I thought I was in many ways. I learned that when you think you just can't go any further, you can. And I learned to always watch my step behind the yak trains  :).
Planning on indulging in some yak meat tonight. Just had a great HOT shower (after having to change rooms when there was literally crap leaking from under our toilet and we hadn't even used it yet.). The small comforts are big when you haven't had them for a while. Looking forward to higher temperatures tomorrow and the coming days.

16. Kyangjuma to Tashi Delek - Ya can't rush a yak train.....

I slept!!!! I feel like that woman on the commercial who is putting up signs in her yard telling the world she slept! What a difference a drop in elevation makes . And the temperature was warmer also. Up to a balmy 3 degrees celcius last night in the room so no frozen water. AND I could sleep on my side instead of lying prostrate on the bed. Had a great breakfast and although it started out cold we soon warmed up in the sun.
The mountain paths were awash with yak trains this morning . The paths are quite narrow and from the first day we were warned to always stay on the mountain side of the path, as the yaks are burdened heavily with their loads and if you are on the cliff side and they make a side step....well it's a long way down . Of course you can get pushed up against the side of the mountain easily also but that option is preferable to catapulting over the cliff. Anyway, there was a lot of traffic on the old yak highway this morning. I would get stuck behind some and plod along and then grab a chance to pass. Every once in a while you would hit double yak jeopardy, where there was a bunch coming each way and then you had to make a decision, where am I the least likely to get stomped on. They are really quite amazing really . Their handlers carry  a stick with them but seem to rarely have to use it. They have a series of whistle noises they use that steer them in the right direction . Every once in a while one will veer off the path and then someone will run off and bring it back in line.
An easier day today as mostly downhill. We were able to stop in Namche Bazaar on the way down for lunch and could get to an internet place also. It's always so great to be able to have a little contact with home and I really appreciate all the kind comments everyone has left for me. Mom and Dad, if all goes well will try to call you once I get back to Kathmandu, likely early morning as that might be the only time I might catch you at home.
Got to our tea house this afternoon and some children came to perform to raise money for books for their school. This, unfortunately , sparked a little debate between an older member of the group who had been  a teacher, and who had invited them in, and a younger outspoken member of the group who thought we were treating them like "trained monkeys ". Regardless, they danced and sang  a bit and some of us gave them money.
One more day of hiking . Seems  impossible. We will be back in Lukla tomorrow and then early the next morning we leave on our small little plane back to Kathmandu.