Tuesday, 13 November 2012

13. Lobouche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base camp to Gorak Shep.

"That,that, that, that that don't kill me, can only  make me stronger - Kanye West"
To say this was a long day would be an understatement . Up at 0530. Air is so thin that it is near impossible to sleep . Not sure what my record will be but is 0100 after this day I'm describing and this will be my third night of no sleep. Have to lie completely on your back in order to get the air in and then I am breathing so heavy to get the air into my lungs that it just doesn't go well.
Left tea house in VERY cold conditions with so many layers on i looked like the Michelin man. I thought maybe they  could roll me to the base camp. So out of breath with every step, and the hills just kept coming. Got to Gorak Shep around 1100 and everyone had some veg noodle soup. We all were told first day not to eat ANY meat at all as everything is brought up to these areas by sherpa and Buddhists don't kill animals . So any meat that would reach these tea houses would be at least days old or older . My plan is to try yak meat the night before we fly back to Kathmandu though . I'm told it will be safe there .
After lunch we started out for base camp. One of the Swedish gentleman decided at this point that he could go no further and stayed back. I couldn't believe that he could get within hours of our goal and not finish but then i could tell you other stories in the Swedish vein......
It was three hours to base camp from there , and although I had no doubt in my mind that I would push myself to get there I had real reservations on how I was going to make it back. I really thought along the way "There is no way I am going to make it back". There were a couple others in the group that expressed they didn't think they would go on to base camp but talked them through it. I mean, seriously . We have been busting our butts to get this far. Can't stop now.
Finally, next to a huge glacier, there it was. One of the porters pointed it out. From above, it was slightly anti-climactic but as we neared it and came up to the big sign I predictably started to cry. Recovered quickly and then the photo ops started. Got some great group shots minus one and some single photos . The porters had carried thermoses of "hot orange" which is basically tang hot, but was nice to have something warm. Then the long trek back. At this point I put on my ipod and put my head down and basically watched the feet in front of me. It was the only way I could get myself back through it. Back at Gorak Shep - total body exhaustion . Only way I can describe it. One of the porters had to stop me from going in to the wrong tea house by tapping me on the arm - I just saw a building, knew it would be warm and have chairs and that was all I cared . Sat around the yak dung fire getting warm again and had to shake my head a little . I did it.
Starting to descend in the morning and apparently we will lose 1000 meters in elevation which will make a huge difference . Hopefully sleep will come then.

No comments:

Post a Comment