29. Boston

After over 24 hours since boarding in Mumbai (and this isn't including the flight from kolkata to Mumbai ) I have made it to Boston finally ! Yay!! Grabbed an hour of sleep on this past 9 hour flight from London so this king size bed with all the pillows will be good tonight .
In the past month I have been on 16 different flights . Sixteen !! That is nuts . I have been patted down so many times now that I just see someone with a uniform on and I raise my arms and assume the position.
Looking forward to getting to my car tomorrow and heading across that border, seeing that Canadian flag flying high. It always fills me with a sense of national pride to get back to the border after a trip abroad and see that maple leaf. As much as this trip was amazing and so rewarding there is nothing like getting back home again. I am afraid I may be bringing a bug back with me but that will all work itself out . Pun intended.
So this will be the end of the blog for now. Thank you to all of you who have been following it and rooting me on with all the kind comments . It really meant  a lot to me. Sorry I had to stop adding pictures but such is the limits of technology. Just realized today that there were two days during the trek that I wrote in a notebook and never copied it over to the blog. Will look it over when i get home and if there is anything interesting maybe i will write them up.
Until the next big trip (and that will be a while) thanks for reading and see most of you soon!!

28. Calcutta and onwards

In a taxi cab,  back to the airport again. The traffic, as always, horrendous. The cabby is hawking and spitting out the window on a regular basis . When i first got in the cab we barely made it around the corner when he asked me for 2 rupees . I figured there must be a toll to pay on a bridge or something so rooted around and found him 5 rupees . He stops the cab, jumps out and says "cigarettes " and uses my money to buy himself some smokes on the street. Wonderful. Not only am I inundated with the smog of the city but now I have his chain smoking fumes coming back at me.
I have continuously wondered at the fact that you do not see more accidents in these big cities in India. For the most part , I have to say that the drivers are very skilled at their weaving in and out and there seemingly known system of honking and blowing horns that appears to let other drivers know their thoughts  and directions because there is no other rhyme or reason that I can see and this is my fifth time in the country. Mom, you think that you do some swift intakes of breath and palm slapping of the dash when Dad is driving . I think the only blessing you would have here is that you would likely faint in the first few moments and then be oblivious. This cabby is not the best driver i have been with. Be glad to be at the airport again and out of the haze of his hand rolled smoke .
Pedestrians NEVER have the right of way in India . Not in Nepal either although did not seem to be quite as bad there. While in Nepal our guide told us that if a driver hits a cow and kills it he will spend years in jail. If he kills a pedestrian, he receives 15 days . Seriously . I have seen poor women standing in the middle of the street with babies in their arms and these drivers are not stopping . Really didn't want to know what the penalty was here.
At the Calcutta airport now. The cabby charged me over double what it cost to get from airport to hotel yesterday and then, when checking in luggage they wouldn't let me carry on what i did yesterday , made me check it and then told me i was 20 kgs over my allowed amount and had to pay 115 dollars for extra baggage fee. This is not turning out to be a good day and it won't be over for another 36 hours.

27. Calcutta

Oh Calcutta. How you have not changed.
Will first start at beginning of the day. Awake early to get ready for the trip to the airport. Tried to pay my hotel bill in Aizawl and found that it had already been paid for me by the church. I tried to argue the point but that was a waste of breath. I cannot even explain the kindness and goodness of these people. There are no words that are good enough to describe. Rev Chalhnuna brought me more of the local oranges that he knows i love and Zuali, Rev Zalianthanga's daughter brought me several different kinds of chocolate to eat along my journey.
We reached the airport and although I tried VERY hard not to cry of course I did. Again I was the only white face on  the plane which can be quite funny. I hadn't realized that we had to fly to Manipur state first to drop off and pick up so the flight was longer than i expected.
And then Calcutta. Hardly words to describe it either. The noise. The smog. The abject poverty. The heat. You are idling in traffic and all that you can smell through the non air-conditioned cab (these vehicles are circa 1950, I kid you not) is urine. Then you move a few feet and you might smell sweet incense burning. The man in the car next to you is staring, full faced staring, because you are white and a foreigner while his finger is up his nostril, up to the second  knuckle, digging as if his life depended on it .
I thought , once again, that i had picked a hotel close to the airport but it took almost an hour to get here. I know there are slightly better areas in Calcutta but we certainly did not pass through any of them getting here. I was really starting to doubt my Expedia pick of hotel as sometimes the pictures and ads can be deceiving, but finally we arrived and it is quite good. Very noisy outside but clean inside and has a good shower, which are my requirements for the night . Could not work the hot water in Aizawl and so washed my hair in cold water and did the bucket bath thing . Was fine.
Hoping to have a good rest tonight and hoping they will let me have a late checkout as my flight from here doesn't leave until 7 pm-ish tomorrow evening and the thought of sitting in the domestic airport for hours on end is not bearable at this moment.

26. Last day in Aizawl

Another great day spent in this beautiful place. Didn't sleep as well last night and was awake early . Laid awake a long time thinking about all the wonderful people here. Had breakfast and then met with Thangtei and Rev Chalhnuna at the church. Went to the market with them both and was able to pick up a couple of things to give them. We had coffee together and then went to Lawma's wifes family and was given more shawls . Heidi and Peter, I am lugging some things home for you!
I literally had to buy another duffle bag to bring home all the gifts I have been given . The people here are so giving . Much too generous .
I rested and packed a little in the afternoon and then was invited for dinner at Rev Zalianthanga's, where his daughter prepared a delicious meal. I think that Thangtei also helped  to prepare the meal. Rice, fish , curry chicken , salad ....everything was so tasty and i was so full after I could barely move. We had a great time together and I am so blessed to have such great friends.
Trying desperately to stuff everything in the suitcases and bags I have. Will be heading to the local airport, Lengpui, at 0930 tomorrow. Then on to Kolkata for tomorrow night - slightly unplanned but nevertheless I will be there. I expect by the time I get there I will likely just settle in to the hotel for the night. Unless things have changed greatly, Kolkata (Calcutta) is not a city that I really want to do a lot of sight seeing by myself .

25. Aizawl

Had a great day in aizawl today. Started off the day with meeting a couple of the girls at the church and then went on to the market. I was able to pick up a few things including a new shawl for myself to wear at church tonight . The days are warm but the evening can be quite cool . We did some sight seeing after that including going to the local museum. The Mizo people used to be tribal headhunters before they became Christian, so it was very interesting seeing the history of this place.
I was invited for dinner at the new church so went back to the hotel to get ready for it and then headed to the new church. For those of you who don't know, it was the dream of the church here to build a new church, and Peter, the doctor that I have done the medical clinics with in previous years, and I , committed to sending them money every three months until they were able to do so. They finally finished the building last March and wanted us to come for the dedication service, but neither Peter or I could come at that time.
When I finally saw it today for the first time, surprise !! I cried ! What a beautiful, beautiful building . I had seen pictures before but to see it there before me was amazing. Took lots of pictures that I will post when I get home.
Dinner was delicious . They felt they had to buy me special chicken from the hotel I am staying in but the food they had was just as delicious or more. We had rice, a long green gourd with spikes on it boiled (Heidi we saw these in the market ), boiled pork with greens, and some really delicious bamboo shoot. It had peanuts mixed with it and that might have been my favourite thing of all.
After we rested at Thangtei's house and then on to the church. They had a wonderful service and presented me with more gifts . I am going to need a new suitcase to bring things home! They presented both myself and Peter with plaques thanking us. I got up to speak and managed to mangle my way through reading a Psalm in their language. Then somehow I also got talked into singing with one of the girls ( thankfully in English). Many pictures were taken after.
Have one more day in Aizawl then leave the next day to go to Kolkata. Will spend the night there and then on to Mumbai where I will take the 0300 flight back to Boston via London.
I am hoping that the black beetle that I picked out of my bed when I returned this evening has no friends and I will be able to sleep and not think of him too much.....

24. Aizawl and the beautiful hills

After endless security checks and rummaging through my carry ons in Kolkata (this has actually happened in every airport in India with every security check - do I have a shifty look about me?) I arrived in Aizawl ! I love flying in to Aizawl. We fly over the hills and you got a glimpse of the city. And when I got off the plane it was a comfortable 24c and all I could smell was flowers in the air. No smoke . No smog. Again, I was the only white face on the plane and in the crowd . Shortly after I got in the airport I saw Rev Chalhnuna walking towards me. Such a kind and gentle man. I almost cried. I had to be pulled off to the side right away to register myself as arriving in the state and then we were able to leave the airport . Thangtei, a special friend from here, was also waiting for me and was so good to see her. One of the church leaders drove his vehicle and the other two down to meet me. Off we went through the endless switchbacks climbing up to Aizawl. Rev Chalhnuna told me they had had an unusually long monsoon season this year. This was evident by several areas along the road where great landslides had covered the roads . They were still working at fixing them months later .
As in every time of arrival to Aizawl the first order of business was to go the local police station and register "the foreigner " into the books . One of the things they always ask and record every time I arrive is my fathers name. So,Dad, your name has once again been duly recorded in their big book.
Was then taken to my hotel where more church members were waiting for me. They gathered some extra chairs and we all crammed in and had a cup of coffee together. I was getting pretty tired by this point, having been up since before 3 am and it was then twelve hours later. I was given the programs for church the next two nights and was told that time was made in both services for me to "have a speech". Great. I am such a great public speaker . Not.
I told them I had no good clothes with me to wear to church and Rev Chalhnuna assured me he would borrow a "skirt", which, here, is a long piece of beautiful cloth that you wrap around. They all left for about an hour and half while I got myself settled and had a bit of dinner in my room. Then Rev Chalhnuna came back with another church member and my skirt, I quickly got changed and off we went. When we reached the church Rev Zalianthanga daughter pulled me off to the side and asked if I would like help putting the skirt on right. Not only did I have it tucked wrong but inside out. Sigh.

The service was lovely and the singing, as always, amazing. The Mizo people have a great gift of song and they share it willingly . I am always given a hymnal so I can sing along and I certainly try although stumble greatly on many of the words and usually have no idea what I am saying . I managed to bumble my way through a few words in a speech and they presented me with another beautiful traditional skirt. There is so much work put into these. Stunning. I will wear it tonight .
Slept fairly well although this cold just does not seem to want to let go. Will meet with some church members this morning and then go to visit the new church and some other "sight seeing ". Really looking forward to seeing the new church . They are planning a dinner there for me tonight before the service. Will try to update later .

23. Mumbai to Aizawl

I am standing in the middle of the Kolkata domestic airport. Up at 3 am and have made the first leg of the journey from Mumbai to Kolkata. It's funny how the memories of previous trips here all come rushing back, just standing in this chaotic, noisy building . Already I see people who are obviously from the North East of India. They are easy to pick out - their  gentle smiles and beautiful features .
Left the hotel in Mumbai to the awful realisation that I made a huge mistake in booking my flights back from Aizawl. Somehow I have a flight on Wed from Aizawl to Kolkata but booked my flight from Kolkata to Mumbai for Thursday. I can't imagine how I have done this, but there it is on paper . I am hoping that I will be able to fix this once I reach Aizawl. Maybe tomorrow .
I had decided in Mumbai that the hotel fee was too much to have them drive me to the airport and planned on taking a metered cab. However, when I got to the lobby this morning at 0345 the wonderful man at the desk told me he did not want me to take a metered cab, "Maybe it's safe . Maybe not so much this time of night". Then he offered one of his staff to drive me in the hotel vehicle and "you pay what you like ". You can find kind generous people no matter where you are in the world.
Flew from Goa yesterday. Sat beside a very lovely talkative man from Libya. He had been in ill health and was recovering in India and could not say enough good things about it. He remarked on the "calmness and coolness" of most Indian people and I have to say I agree for the most part. He marvelled at the fact that there are 365 days in the year, however, because of all the different religions in the country, there were 367 different holidays /festivals . He also said that he would need to come back again as "India is so large, it is like a continent. Like Africa . You cannot see it all and experience it all in one trip ". Again , I had to agree .
The funniest thing happened as I stood here. A young gentleman who once acted as my interpreter in our last medical clinic approached me. He recognized me in the crowd ( the blonde hair in the sea of black and brown hair likely helped )and I recognized him right away. Nice to see a friendly face .
Will try to post this when I can although I am unsure of what internet services will be available in the next few days.
Ps. Squatting over a squat toilet with a heavy backpack on your back, because the floor is too disgusting for you to set things down on, pulling you backwards whilst toileting is another feat I can add to my list.

22. Last day in Goa

Another beautiful HOT HOT day in Goa. Went to a weekly Friday market nearby this morning . The heat was unbelievable . Mapusa market is well known around here and definitely well attended. Pretty much anything you could think of wanting to buy was on display. The shanks of mutton and beef hanging in the hot sun with the flies crawling all over them didn't make me want to have a burger anytime soon. And the dried (and i assume salted ) fish lying on the ground didn't smell the most pleasant. But you can always count on the live chickens which there were many. At least it wasn't raw meat hanging out in the sun.
So many different vegetables and fruits and so many vendors clamouring to have the white faces stop and buy something from them . "Hello ? Hello ? Ma'am ? Come here! I make you best best price !". One woman tried to befriend me by asking where i was from and what my name was. I made the mistake of telling her and then for at least 20 minutes straight she followed me. If I got too far away I would hear " Sheeeley come with me! I show you my shop! Sheeeley wait !" . I finally had to be rude and tell her I was not interested and to please stop.
The heat was almost unbearable . Heidi and I made a pact in the mountains, when we could never get warm, that we wouldn't complain about the heat. So hopefully saying "almost" absolves me. We both had dresses on and both of us were soaked to the skin with sweat. I had continuous drips running all over me and just kept trying to drink water to keep a balance. We did make a couple of purchases but was hard to get into bargaining mode with sweat running off the tip of my nose. Not complaining. Just sayin .
We had an option of visiting a spice plantation afterwards which I probably am already kicking myself for not doing but the market sapped us of any energy and bodily fluids . Back to the hotel for the afternoon where there is, at least , a breeze . Planning on dinner out tonight - hoping on some fresh fish. Will skip any dried or salted varieties after this morning .
Back to Mumbai tomorrow afternoon and then on to Aizawl for me and back to the states for Heidi.

21. Relaxing in Goa

Its Thu evening here in Goa. Life has changed from fast paced trekking, on the go all the time to sloooow. Was quite hot here today. Got up this morning and had breakfast and then walked to local beach. Water was very warm and Heidi enjoyed swimming and lying on the beach . I took a walk down the beach and then planted myself in the shade. Those of you who know me well, know that I am no sun worshipper . We sat there for a while and then moved poolside, again me in the shade. I got quite a bit of reading done . Never really ventured out much til around 4 when we got a cab and went to take a local sunset cruise. We both thought it would be a relaxing hour long float down the river with a bit of history and commentary about the local area. What it turned out to be was a loud, ear pounding, dance music cruise where everyone was invited time and again to visit the bar at the back and then come on stage and perform your dance moves for everyone . As we were the only two white people on a boat full of likely 400 Indian people, we remained firmly planted in our seats and just watched in amazement and somewhat bemusement . They even played "Gangnam style " which was a huge crowd hit. Oddly enough it seemed the men were up dancing much more than the females .
Got off the boat and searched for a place for dinner. Took a while but found somewheres . Then it was likely an hour of walking trying to find a cab to take us back. The international film festival of India is here right now and there were droves of people on the street along with many military . Finally, when I was starting to lose hope of finding a cab, one appeared and we made it back. Only to find a dance floor with Indian dance music was rocking out here. Bypassed it also and back in the room. Tomorrow last full day here in the south and then will fly back to Mumbai on Sat . Then I catch a very early flight the next morning to Kolkata (Calcutta)/Aizawl and Heidi flys out late that night (early morning) back to the states .

20. Mumbai to Goa

Since the last post we spent a couple of days in Mumbai. On the 20th we were happy to have friends from Pune, originally from Aizawl Mizoram, come to visit us at the hotel where we were staying . Lawma, his wife Mamie and their children, Esther, Benjamin, and Anna, have been living in Pune while Lawma furthers his education in ministry . Anna had been born since the last time I had seen them, so our first time meeting her. They came and ate lunch with us at the hotel, along with their pastor, who was kind enough to drive them down to visit with us. It happened to be Esther's 14th birthday also, so I made arrangements for the waiter to bring over a small cake with a candle in it. Lawma told me Benjamin had not slept the night before at all, as he was so excited about what Aunty (me) might bring him as a gift from Canada . He seemed to enjoy the lego transformer and cars and Esther put her new Canada t-shirt on right away.
The children had never been to a beach before either, and luckily our hotel backed on the Arabian sea with a large beach . The night before there had been a festival down there, I think called Chhat, but that could be wrong. Apparently women make offerings to the sun god so that they can bear a male child . Then they fast for three days . Anyway, the beach was a bit littered from all the fireworks and festivities but we managed to find some cleaner spots and the children had a great time. Little 3 yr old Anna was soaked from running in the water but luckily they had brought changes of clothes .
After they left it was time for us to get moving once again. Likely waited a bit too long to get going as the Mumbai traffic is crazy, and as per our usual we were running through the airport trying to make our flight. We were able to leave our overweight luggage at the airport in a locked facility so just took carry ons to Goa which helped some. Arrived here last night around ten and although couldn't see much due to darkness, the hotel seems good and I think we plan on going to a local market this morning . Got great advice from our taxi driver last night - "Only eat Goa fish curry . It's the best. Never eat the Chinese food. It's just for foreigners . Only eat domestic chicken . Don't go in water too far."  :)     He was also very concerned with our coughs and wanted to take us to a medicine store but we declined .
Will try to update again later.

19. Kathmandu to Mumbai

It was bound to happen , but I finally hit the wall today. Awake early and had breakfast while Heidi slept bit more and then just realized I could hardly put one foot in front of the other. Heidi decided to do some shopping in Kathmandu as we were leaving by one to catch our flights to Mumbai . I crawled back into bed, still hacking and coughing and just rested for a while. I just felt like I had been drugged, no energy at all. Felt slightly better by the time we went to leave for airport but not much.
I wish I could say our flights were smooth and easy but I'm not sure I have ever been able to say that about any flight in Asia. It started out with them telling us as we checked in our bags that we were way over weight limit and that we would have to pay over 300 US for this! We were able to talk them down to 100 US. Kara, you better like your Christmas present .The airport was plugged solid and things moved very slowly. The flight left half an hour late and we already had a tight switch between flights in Delhi. On top of that, they do this weird thing in India that if you are transferring flights you must go to baggage and pick up all your bags instead of them sending them on through. Then you have to rush to the next area with your bags, re-check them once again through security and then find your gate again, meanwhile going through countless security checks . I have never been patted down and frisked so much in my life.
So we literally almost ran through the Delhi airport trying to get this all accomplished . Finally got through all checkpoints and to the gate with 15 minutes to spare. Both of us feeling relieved . For a few seconds . Then I proceeded through final gate, turned to wait for Heidi, noticed she wasn't moving. Somehow, even though we had checked in together in Kathmandu, they had changed her flight number and she wasn't booked for this flight . Despite protests by the military standing at the gate I went back through. At first we were told she would have to go on later flight regardless and that I couldn't change, and that current flight was full. Finally they found her a seat (in first class,no less) and we got in just before they closed the doors .
Got to Mumbai, both of us exhausted . Not sure if news of prominent political leader, Bal Thackeray's death , made it to Canada , but his funeral had closed streets down in Mumbai in the afternoon and we were unsure what we were going to find. What we found was that the taxis were all on strike (still not really sure why) so there was limited vehicles to drive us to hotel . We thought we had booked a hotel near the airport and after much dickering and arguing with a bunch of men we settled on a price and set off. And drove . And drove. And drove. Then we seemed to be going outside the city. And still we drove. Our driver spoke very little English so difficult to get anything from him. The road we ended up on was dark and all we could see were men walking on it. Finally I saw a sign that said the name of our hotel and minutes later we arrived through the gates . Much security upon arrival, I am assuming because of trouble Mumbai has had in the past with terrorists. Even had to put all of our bags through airport-like security . We will stay here two nights and will make plans today about where to go next. Both of us are knocked flat a bit with this cold so hopefully a good down day will help that some. Temperatures are in high 20's or 30-ish so that should help some . Safe and sound in Mumbai, Mom!

18. Lukla to Kathmandu

Up early once again (remember, sleep is for sissies), at 0500 and caught the plane from Lukla to Kathmandu. Again, very small plane, just big enough to fit our group on. It is so beautiful flying over the hills with the mountains as the backdrop . Looking down there would be nothing but trees and then all of a sudden a lone house, far away from everything . The terrace farms are so amazing from above also.
Back to Kathmandu and back to the noise and smog. The smog lies so heavy in the air and is so noticeable after breathing mountain air for two weeks (although the yak dung fires got a bit noxious at times). So great to come back here to some clean clothes !! Our guide, Maski , was so funny. While we were trekking one of his favourite sayings was " We in mountains now. It's ok. Stay stinky !". I was watching the trekkers that we met yesterday on the trail, just beginning their journey . I was thinking " That's right. See my dirty clothes ? See my cracked bleeding lips.? Hear my hacking cough? My dusty dirty boots? This will be you soon. Enjoy your white fleece sweater while you can because you will probably not even want to bring it home after". But, instead, I smiled, nodded my head and said "Namaste". Why ruin it for them?
Our rooms weren't ready for us when we got back as it was only 0800 when we reached here. But Heidi and I quickly gathered ALL our dirty clothes (except the ones we had on) and had the hotel send them off to the laundry . Enjoyed a good breakfast just down the street with REAL coffee and then came back to our room being ready around 1000. Had the best shower i have had since leaving Canada . Scrubbed myself almost raw. And then put on clean clothes . Aaaah.
Meeting the group for one last dinner together tonight . Will really miss some of them. And then some, not so much. Will definitely miss our guide . He has been the best. Always helpful. Always happy. Always funny. Always knowledgeable . Always caring. We really lucked out getting him.
Tomorrow afternoon leaving Kathmandu and flying back to Mumbai . Still don't have plans made for Southern India but will likely work more on that tomorrow . Nice having no real agenda for the time being .

17. Tashi Delek to Lukla - semi civilization!

Another cold night but knowing it was the last one in the mountains made it bearable. My sleeping bag from MEC has been amazing. A few nights Heidi has been cold with her sleeping bag and an extra blanket and i have been able to give her my blanket and be plenty warm.
Started out early and had 5 hours ahead of us. Unfortunately a lot of it uphill. I remember our first day wondering at the luck of having so much downhill and thinking how lucky we were. Like i said before. Payback. Big. But today I really didn't care (although at one point thought "seriously, we can't go up much more!"). Today i just kinda stayed by myself in the middle of the group and reflected . This was it. Last day of walking . Hard to believe. Had my ipod on and just enjoyed .
I feel like I learned a lot during this time. I learned that people are somewhat the same all over the world no matter their situation. I learned a smile and a greeting in native tongue can earn you a smile and a  greeting back. I learned the Nepali people are a resilient strong people in both character and strength. Anyone who can carry 130kgs on their back, likely twice their body weight, for two days uphill to another village for 30 rupies per kg (approximately 50 cents ), turn around go back down and start over again has my respect and then some. I saw men/boys carrying full stoves with pipe on their backs. Even saw a man going with a bathtub on his back today . I could hardly handle a small pack.
I learned that I am weaker in some ways than I thought I was. I learned that I am stronger than I thought I was in many ways. I learned that when you think you just can't go any further, you can. And I learned to always watch my step behind the yak trains  :).
Planning on indulging in some yak meat tonight. Just had a great HOT shower (after having to change rooms when there was literally crap leaking from under our toilet and we hadn't even used it yet.). The small comforts are big when you haven't had them for a while. Looking forward to higher temperatures tomorrow and the coming days.

16. Kyangjuma to Tashi Delek - Ya can't rush a yak train.....

I slept!!!! I feel like that woman on the commercial who is putting up signs in her yard telling the world she slept! What a difference a drop in elevation makes . And the temperature was warmer also. Up to a balmy 3 degrees celcius last night in the room so no frozen water. AND I could sleep on my side instead of lying prostrate on the bed. Had a great breakfast and although it started out cold we soon warmed up in the sun.
The mountain paths were awash with yak trains this morning . The paths are quite narrow and from the first day we were warned to always stay on the mountain side of the path, as the yaks are burdened heavily with their loads and if you are on the cliff side and they make a side step....well it's a long way down . Of course you can get pushed up against the side of the mountain easily also but that option is preferable to catapulting over the cliff. Anyway, there was a lot of traffic on the old yak highway this morning. I would get stuck behind some and plod along and then grab a chance to pass. Every once in a while you would hit double yak jeopardy, where there was a bunch coming each way and then you had to make a decision, where am I the least likely to get stomped on. They are really quite amazing really . Their handlers carry  a stick with them but seem to rarely have to use it. They have a series of whistle noises they use that steer them in the right direction . Every once in a while one will veer off the path and then someone will run off and bring it back in line.
An easier day today as mostly downhill. We were able to stop in Namche Bazaar on the way down for lunch and could get to an internet place also. It's always so great to be able to have a little contact with home and I really appreciate all the kind comments everyone has left for me. Mom and Dad, if all goes well will try to call you once I get back to Kathmandu, likely early morning as that might be the only time I might catch you at home.
Got to our tea house this afternoon and some children came to perform to raise money for books for their school. This, unfortunately , sparked a little debate between an older member of the group who had been  a teacher, and who had invited them in, and a younger outspoken member of the group who thought we were treating them like "trained monkeys ". Regardless, they danced and sang  a bit and some of us gave them money.
One more day of hiking . Seems  impossible. We will be back in Lukla tomorrow and then early the next morning we leave on our small little plane back to Kathmandu.

15. Pheruche to Kyangjuma

Well, this was definitely the coldest night of the trip. I slept with my pack beside me in the bed so that I could sip on my camelbak water. The altitude makes your mouth so dry. It is just like cotton. So I went to take a sip around 0100 and my line was frozen . Completely . Chewed on ice crystals and worked the line all night just to get enough to get my mouth wet. Still coughing a lot, and I am not sure my body can produce any more mucous . Heidi has it now also, as does much of the group. Heidi and I decided yesterday that my body has rejected the two lungs I have and is working on building a new one. Our new favourite line to each other is " we are paying for this!! "
We started out at eight am after breakfast and did uphill for quite a while but then levelled out and started descending . It's always so nice to not have to struggle uphill but always at the back of my mind is the knowledge that if we are going down then we are definitely going up. Payback. And how. After lunch there was 1 1/2 hours of steep  uphill. I put the music on and actually felt the best I have yet going uphill. I just decided that I was going to go slowly and steady and before I knew it I was at the top. I am sure that the change in elevation has made a huge difference also.
Several times during the trip I have distanced myself from the group a little just so I can be by myself and my own thoughts (yes, mom, I am still safe). I am usually a solo hiker, as most of you know, so the whole group thing is hard sometimes . Since we have started the trek the only thing you can hear are other peoples voices, nature sounds , and the ringing of the yak bells as they approach and leave you. No motors. Nothing motorized at all, except about 2 or 3 times a day the rescue helicopters fly over. You never know  for sure if they are going for someone or not, but apparently one of them did make a rescue yesterday . Glad to be on my own two feet and on my way back.
Staying at a place tonight that actually has a tv and dvd player! Our options for movies are documentaries on Everest . That actually is it. But actually sounds pretty good.

14. Gorak Shep to Pheruche

Finally beginning to descend . Spent another sleepless night (as alluded to in the last post) , just not being able to breathe . Hoping that will be better tonight . Thought I would describe myself as I left for hiking this morning . From the bottom to the top. Two pairs thick wool hiking socks; long underwear, hiking pants , wind pants, gym shirt with built in bra, wool shirt, wool sweater , down jacket , wind shell jacket, hair that hadn't been washed for five days pulled back in messy braid with wool hat on top of that then hoods of both jackets pulled up over that. Oh and two pairs of gloves . My beauty was astounding .
Toilets frozen again this morning. Have never experienced the squat toilets in cold weather before. Think I'm good for life now.
I had noooo energy starting out this morning and we were into hills right first thing. Thankfully after an hour or so things started moving downwards. Hiked for about 7 hours today and have come down in elevation by 1000 meters . I am hoping that will make the difference in sleep tonight . Remains very cold but there were hot showers at the place we are staying at tonight. I should say hot trickles and boy was it cold when the water stopped . Sat around the yak dung fire trying to get my hair dried . Paints a pretty picture doesn't it?
All i can remember about tomorrow is that we will again be losing elevation and hiking. I am anxious to be below tree line again so that it is a bit warmer . Can't seem to add pictures to the blog when doing it on my phone, sorry.

13. Lobouche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base camp to Gorak Shep.

"That,that, that, that that don't kill me, can only  make me stronger - Kanye West"
To say this was a long day would be an understatement . Up at 0530. Air is so thin that it is near impossible to sleep . Not sure what my record will be but is 0100 after this day I'm describing and this will be my third night of no sleep. Have to lie completely on your back in order to get the air in and then I am breathing so heavy to get the air into my lungs that it just doesn't go well.
Left tea house in VERY cold conditions with so many layers on i looked like the Michelin man. I thought maybe they  could roll me to the base camp. So out of breath with every step, and the hills just kept coming. Got to Gorak Shep around 1100 and everyone had some veg noodle soup. We all were told first day not to eat ANY meat at all as everything is brought up to these areas by sherpa and Buddhists don't kill animals . So any meat that would reach these tea houses would be at least days old or older . My plan is to try yak meat the night before we fly back to Kathmandu though . I'm told it will be safe there .
After lunch we started out for base camp. One of the Swedish gentleman decided at this point that he could go no further and stayed back. I couldn't believe that he could get within hours of our goal and not finish but then i could tell you other stories in the Swedish vein......
It was three hours to base camp from there , and although I had no doubt in my mind that I would push myself to get there I had real reservations on how I was going to make it back. I really thought along the way "There is no way I am going to make it back". There were a couple others in the group that expressed they didn't think they would go on to base camp but talked them through it. I mean, seriously . We have been busting our butts to get this far. Can't stop now.
Finally, next to a huge glacier, there it was. One of the porters pointed it out. From above, it was slightly anti-climactic but as we neared it and came up to the big sign I predictably started to cry. Recovered quickly and then the photo ops started. Got some great group shots minus one and some single photos . The porters had carried thermoses of "hot orange" which is basically tang hot, but was nice to have something warm. Then the long trek back. At this point I put on my ipod and put my head down and basically watched the feet in front of me. It was the only way I could get myself back through it. Back at Gorak Shep - total body exhaustion . Only way I can describe it. One of the porters had to stop me from going in to the wrong tea house by tapping me on the arm - I just saw a building, knew it would be warm and have chairs and that was all I cared . Sat around the yak dung fire getting warm again and had to shake my head a little . I did it.
Starting to descend in the morning and apparently we will lose 1000 meters in elevation which will make a huge difference . Hopefully sleep will come then.

12. Dingboche to Lobouche

Remembrance day. I thought of this as I hiked along this morning . Time difference is so great that it was difficult to observe the 2 minutes silence, which i am very regimented to on this day as I believe in the importance of remembering. But I remembered by myself, silently thanking those that had gone before me, like my grandfathers, for the freedom I am afforded as a Canadian citizen .
Another tough, tough day. The landscape is so barren now, above the tree line, and it is so cold. The pit toilets are frozen, which makes going interesting . You wonder if the ice around the pit toilet is really water ice or.....you know. We climbed a total of 500 meters today however we actually did 800 meters with all the up and down. After climbing straight up for 45 minutes we came across an eerie but important area. There were  monuments all over for those who died on Everest . One was there for the Canadian woman who died in May of this year on Everest . One large one was there for a famous sherpa (his name escapes me now) who had many summits on Everest, once going twice in a two week  period. We hiked until 1430, had a small rest, and then did an acclimitization hike up to a glacier. I don't think there is any of us who are not feeling the effects of the altitude now. Simple walking has me doing  pursed lip breathing . There are a couple in the group who have massive headaches tonight . We have been assured this will be our coldest night yet. It is already -5 outside and the sun hadn't gone down yet with that reading . We have also been assured that tomorrow morning will be our coldest morning . I am planning on layering as much as possible and hoping for the best. One poor girl is from Australia and she says she will never go anywhere cold again. She was in tears this afternoon after the glacier hike .
Tomorrow Base Camp ! It seems unbelievable .

11. Everest in sight!

" If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home". - James Michener
Staying here in Namche for two nights,  so were actually able to sleep in a bit this morning,  although I was still awake at 0600. Breakfast of porridge with apples again this morning but a bit like wallpaper paste,  so only got half down.
Since today was acclimitization day, it was necessary to go way up and then come back down. We had an elevation of 400 meters, which in my mind doesn't sound like much, but it certainly was. It was straight uphill for two hours.  I am definitely feeling the altitude, and am moving so slow its almost painful. I have no air to draw in while moving after some time, it seems. And to take a drink of water in that state is almost scary for me, because I can't catch my breath. The views were amazing though,  the whole way up. Will add pics at bottom. We were way above Namche and it was so amazing to see it from that viewpoint.  We kept climbing until we reached a tea house, and then just around the other side of it, there was Everest!!!!!  It was hard to believe that I was actually seeing it in front of me, in person! Took many photos and a long group photo session ensued with our guide using everyone's camera and taking pictures for us. One of the Swedish men is not in the picture as the altitude was bothering him a lot, and he stayed below. We had tea and then headed back down, which of course went much faster. Lunch was interesting, I had fried potatoes with two fried eggs on the top, with cheese (I believe yak cheese) on top of that. A German couple,  whom I've gotten to know quite well, were laughing at me and saying that in their country you can have children's or seniors meals which are a smaller portion and suggested that was what I needed as I never can seem to finish a meal. I said we had this in Canada also and agreed with them!
After lunch I had my last hot shower of this trek. I think the whole team is taking advantage of it. It costs, I think 400 rupees,  which is around 5 dollars, but I figure it is worth it! Last time for clean hair for the next ten days. Ugh. The ponytail will be my friend. As will the hat.
Tomorrow we continue upwards,  and I don't have the schedule in front of me so can't even tell you where we will be ( oh, the Sherpa  just came in and I think he said we will be in tengboche). Have no idea what internet access will be like, so again, may not be able to update for few days. Adding pictures below.  Enjoying any comments sent my way, makes me feel in touch with you all.
1. Namche Bazaar from above. 2. Masti,  our guide for the trip. 3. First glimpse of Everest.  It is the peak to the very left of the picture.  Although it looks smaller,  it is because it is further away. The German gentleman told me today that it is 29 kms from where we are now,  as the crow flies. 4. Heidi and I in front of Everest.
5. Group pic in front of Everest although we kind of block it :-)

10. Phakding to Namche

Well. When our guide said it would be a "rough" day, that may have been an understatement. No, it was an understatement. Definitely an understatement. We got up at 6 am and had breakfast at 7 am. My appetite hasn't been the same since starting this, but I had some wonderful apple porridge. It was SO cold this morning,layered in many many layers, gloves and winter hat in place. The trek started out wonderfully this morning, despite the cold. It wasn't too hard at first, some hills, but definitely  do-able. After mid- morning it became tough. It then became completely uphill. We gained 800 meters in elevation and walked 13 kms, but at least half of that steep uphill. Boy, do I mean steep. After hitting the uphill part I quickly became the tail end of the group. Could definitely notice the difference in elevation today, and I was literally just putting one foot in front of the other with taking many breaks just to get my breathing more manageable. It seemed to go on forever and even though it was still chilly I was stripped down to a tank top and sweating. This was not good later. We finally reached the guest house at around 1530. I was exhausted and my clothing was soaked. I started to shiver and despite changing all of my clothes, with many layers again, and climbing into my down sleeping bag with a heavy blanket AND Heidi's large fur bobcat hat, I shivered for another hour. We are just having dinner now. Food is very simple on the trail but it fills a hole. Heidi and I asked for a large pot of ginger lemon tea when we arrived at the guest house yesterday.  In Kathmandu when you asked for a large pot of tea, you got a medium sized pot that would give us each about 2-3 cups. Yesterday we received a keg of tea! No kidding! Will include picture below.  My cold is maybe a bit worse, my nose has become a faucet, and very sore and red. And today I developed a cough, just for good measure. I'm sure that didn't help the climbing today however pretty sure can't blame it on that totally.
We stay here for two nights to acclimatize to this elevation, however we will do a 3-4 hour hike up and back to help with the acclimitization. This village may be our last chance at a shower so will definitely take advantage of that tomorrow afternoon so that it will give my hair time to dry before night. Will try and check in again tomorrow. Love you Kara! !
Pictures- 1. Heidi and I standing in front of the Hillary suspension bridge  2. Looking  over the side of the suspension bridge with the prayer flags blowing in the wind. 3. Yak train coming behind me on the suspension bridge. 4. Beautiful little boy at a rest stop 5. Glimpses of the himalayas 6. This morning in Phakding with two German couples trekking with us. 7. Heidi and I and our large pot of tea!

9. Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding November 5

Started out early this morning,  0430, so up at 0350. Was very chilly this morning,  had to layer quite a bit. Drove to the airport with the team in a bus and jumped the tiny little plane at 0600. Aisle was so small that you had to walk sideways down it. Our team and two guides pretty much filled it. The favours passed out on the plane were a hard candy to suck on while we were going up and a big piece of cotton to split and stick in your ears for the noise of the loud motor.  Could watch all the goings on of the pilot and co-pilot during the whole flight.If you have a chance to look up on YouTube, look for Lukla airport. The airstrip is the smallest I have ever seen and if they were to overshoot it you would run into the side of the mountain or airport.
Had breakfast in Lukla and then started out trekking. The pace was comfortable and a few hills but wasn't bad. Met many a yak train along the way, carrying heavy loads, and many a sherpa carrying loads that I couldn't even imagine.  Crossed a long suspension bridge and have been promised more for tomorrow. We finished for the day around one and stopped at our tea house/hut for the night. Was nice and warm when the sun was out but as soon as it went down, it was very chilly.
I have managed to get a cold and the throat and nose are feeling a bit miserable. Hoping to feel bit better tomorrow.  It is supposed to be one of the rougher days. We will reach Namche  Bazaar tomorrow and then will stay there for two days to acclimitize, although will do some up, then down hiking to get that acclimitization. I've been told the internet is iffy here and not sure this will send, so if not will try again from Namche.

8. On the verge...

Started out the day with breakfast at a new place with banana porridge and REAL coffee!  So good I had two! Nescafe is the brand of choice, it seems, and while it is coffee, persay, I almost would rather go without, which is very likely what I will be doing the next two weeks. Got out early and did some shopping for last minute trek gear, and Heidi did some fancy bartering for rugs. Before, when we had gone shopping,  we stuck to one street pretty much. To say that the streets are a maze would be rather an understatement.  There is no rhyme or reason that I can see to the planning, and cars, motorbikes,  bicycles, bicycle rickshaw and pedestrians all share the same small lanes with much tooting of horns and sidestepping. We decided to be a bit braver today and stray off the one street. This was to our detriment.  Although we saw lots of new things and had some delicious samosas, we soon realized we were very lost. I never like to say I'm lost when there are people around to give directions,  however the directions we got were not right at all, twice. Finally  we bowed to the realization we were going to have to take desperate measures. So we climbed aboard a bicycle rickshaw and off we went, careening through the streets. Laughed our heads off the whole way. I'm sure the poor guy thought we were crazy. Bought you a Christmas present today, Kara!
Met with the group tonight - it should be interesting!! Many nationalities represented in the group. Welsh, Australian,  Swedish, German, British,Polish, Danish, and our guide is nepalese. All ages also represented it seems.  We are meeting at 0430 in the morning and then going to the airport to take our small little plane to lukla. Will apparently have breakfast there and then start trekking.  Not sure how often will be able to update but I will when I can.

7. Temples, monkeys and burning bodies.....

Another packed day. Did a little shopping, picking up things we thought we might need for the trek. I always find the barter system difficult - never knowing if I am paying too much, but at the same time walking the fine line of giving these poor people a living. Hired a car again today and first visited a place called Bhaktapur. It used to be the capital of Nepal between the 12th and 15th century. It is now the cultural capital of Nepal and gives shelter ti almost 100 thousand peasants.  Lots of very old temples and buildings in there. Very hot today,  around 30 c.
We then went on to visit three different temples.  The first one, (pashupatinath)had a river running through it and bodies were being burnt on funeral pyres (see pics below). Apparently after being burnt down they are swept into the river. The most disconcerting thing of all of that to me was seeing the ladies washing clothes just a little ways down from that, and children playing in the water. Apparently people scavenge in the water after the ashes are swept in for gold fillings etc.
Saw two more temples after that, each one unique in its own way. The last one we went to was overrun with monkeys.  As I was taking a picture of one, Heidi was in behind me saying " Close enough Shelley!  Ebola! Ebola!".
Resting a bit right now and then will head out for supper. Tomorrow will have to spend some time getting everything organized for the next day. Looking forward to the trek but nervous and just hoping we will do okay. Thanks for the kind comments everyone!

6. Kathmandu

Finally!  Made it to Kathmandu.  No more traveling, except for short flight to Lukla on Mon, and then, of course,  extensive traveling via foot.  Grabbed some sleep after arrival to hotel and then hit the streets for the sights and sounds of the city (which were drifting in the window while trying to sleep also....nothing like Bollywood style Hindi music to lull you to sleep). Had a good meal, really the first of the day, tonight at a nearby restaurant and finally relaxed a little. Plans are loose for tomorrow,  then meet the group Sun evening. Will add a few pics of the day below.

5. Sleep? Sleep is for sissies.....

Loooong day. Got to sleep at 0500, awake at 0800. Had breakfast at the hotel and then hired a car for the day to tour around Mumbai. We certainly fit a lot in for just one day....some shopping, touring of gardens,  visited the Gate of India,and went to the dhobi ghat, which is large area where laundering is done for the city (see picture ), plus much much much more.  On three separate occasions we incited mini flash mobs, which  all turned into photo shoots with random Indian people who wanted their pictures taken with the two pale, blonde foreigners.  Just when you thought it might be over, someone else would wiggle their way in beside me, look at Heidi and I and say "Please ma'am? " while gesturing at the camera with one hand and, at times, slipping an arm around my waist. The first time was in a garden and seemed mostly to be young ladies and a few gentleman.  Tonight, however,  we had the chance to visit the amazing Chowpatty beach, with the Arabian sea under our toes. The sun was setting and we had a deadline to get back to our hired car. It was then that I was surrounded by young,  likely 20 something men asking to have their picture taken with me. I gave Heidi my camera and she captured some of the chaos.  Everything and everyone seemed to be on that beach - girls begging to do henna on us, men asking if we would like to see their monkeys (there really were monkeys, just to clarify that), and some great street food, which was what I really wanted for my birthday supper. Got scammed a little a couple of times today but was mild as far as scams go.
Unfortunately had the wrong information for our flight to Kathmandu tonight. Went to international airport and after standing in line for some time were told we needed to be at domestic airport. Mild panic (or slightly more than that) set in, and I hailed down an auto rickshaw, we stuffed us, the driver and ALL our luggage (wish I had a picture of that) and off we flew to the domestic airport. We think he took the long way to get more money out of the meter but we made it in time! Whew!  Two hour flight to Delhi and now it is 0346 and flight to Kathmandu still doesn't leave til 0730. I am beginning to think that Heidi can sleep through anything. The noise level here is high but she is stretched out and sound asleep.  I'm not jealous.  No. Not at all.
Will land in Kathmandu sometime after 9 am. Will be glad to leave these flights behind for a while.  My biggest regret of the day was being unable to talk to my birthday buddy. I tried countless times but could not make it work and even the texting fell through after early am. So sorry, my little nutbrown hare. Happy  birthday.  Love you to the moon and back.
Ps. Right after finishing the above Heidi woke up and told me about pay phones she had seen, and so I blubbered my way through a phone call with Kara,  taking her out of a movie :-)

4. Chocolate,champagne and shower....

Made it to Mumbai! !! Flights were tight but no troubles. Heidi was able to sleep great on the flights - I did my usual head bob/ wake up routine but got a little sleep. I was showing Heidi the picture of the birthday cake that mom had made me with the huge mountain on top when one of the flight attendants came along and commented on it. She was amazed at first that Kara's and my birthday was the same day and also amazed at the cake. Then she asked when the birthday was. It was 2355 at the time so I said, "I guess its in five minutes! "  Next thing I knew she was back to my seat with some expensive chocolate and a glass of champagne!   In a real glass even! She said " hey it only happens once a year, you deserve  it!"  Then got here to hotel and checked  in with passports. After showering and getting ourselves ready  to turn in the phone rang.  Heidi answered and said "its for you". It was the owner of the hotel calling to wish me happy birthday! Said he was going over our paperwork and said " its shelley's birthday!" so had to call. So funny. Catching a few winks now and then looking around city some when we get up.  Heading to Kathmandu to tonight! !

3. London calling.....waiting for Mumbai....

" There are no foreign lands.  It is only the traveler who is foreign. " - Robert  Louis Stevenson
Toothpicks remain firmly braced in the eyelids. The flight from Boston was not only an hour late scheduled to leave but then another 45 minutes on the tarmac waiting in the "queue". Needless to say our very comfortable 3 hour layover became a hurried foot race through the London heathrow airport.  Made the connection and am now on route to Mumbai.  Sitting beside a lovely Indian lady from Mumbai.  She has sweetly lent me her magazine and then seconds later tore a piece off of the poor airline attendants for bringing her husband a Muslim meal instead of a Hindu meal. (insert Indian accent here) "such terrible service!! Never again!  Virgin airlines always good before, not now! How to deal??" She thanked me profusely when I fixed the volume on her movie,  grasping my hand and telling me I was such a good girl. Then admits in the next sentence that her voice is quite  hoarse from her sore throat,then hacks and coughs for effect. The nurse in me wants to grab my hand sanitizer from my purse immediately. Nine hours on this flight and then hopefully a good shower in the hotel in Mumbai. Can't publish this now as no wifi so will when I can. Thanks for all the kind words and encouragement everyone. Mom, I am fine. Don't worry.  Two wasted sentences.  :-)

2.Cars, buses, and airplanes.....hopefully. ...

Finally!  Didn't think the day would ever arrive! After a sleepless night, one of those ones where there is so much coursing through your brain that you know you just might as well get up and get the toothpicks out, left the house at 0530 and met my Kara for breakfast.  After a fine meal at mcdonalds, headed out in the wind and rain. Sandy did her best to dissuade us, and boy, the torrential rain at times was scary, but my parents raised a stubborn girl. Each will say its from the other side of the family. Pretty sure got equal shares from both. Being stubborn has gotten me through a lot in life and I'm sure it will continue.
On the bus to Boston right now. Flight has been delayed an hour but we had 3 hours in London for layover so fingers crossed. They are playing the latest movies on this bus - Mrs Doubtfire. Will be happy to get on the plane and have this part behind us. Will try and update again soon.

1.Test....test...

A blog.  Really?  Never thought I would be doing this.  However, many have said they wanted to me to keep in touch while on this next adventure, and so, here I go.....

First, disclaimer.  The photo on the page is just a mountain.  Not sure if it is even in the Himalayas, although it certainly looks like it is.  Hopefully will include the real thing in this blog in little over a month....

It all still seems a little surreal that I will be climbing to the base camp of the highest mountain on earth very soon.  I almost feel a little superstitious writing about it in advance, as a few plans in the past years have gone down the tubes because of interfering life events.  Meanwhile, the love-hate relationship with the gym continues, pretty much daily.  Someone asked me today at the gym if I felt I was ready (gym-wise) for the trek.  In short, NO!!  But as she said, and I believe, can you ever really feel like you are ready for something in the unknown?  I said one day, after being berated at work for going to the Y after a 12 hour shift at the hospital, I am pretty sure I am not going to get on that trail and say, "Gee, wish I hadn't gone to the gym so much!!"

Thirty-two days and I will be boarding the plane in Boston.  Expecting great times with my wonderful friend and perfect travelling buddy, Heidi.  Predictions of late night laughing, frazzled nerves at Indian airports, and possibly a few tears (quite sure I will when missing my "birthday buddy", Kara, on our special day, and most likely at the base camp).  If anyone has any pointers on how to make this better, please share!!  I shall try not to bore you!